After a somewhat rolly night in Paraiso we weigh anchor once again. The colors are even more vibrant in the morning light and I really don’t want to leave. But leave we do, and within a few minutes I’m busy scanning the Ocean. I’m soon rewarded as some unidentified fish jumps multiple times out of the water, spinning like a torpedo. It’s about a foot long and very narrow, with a pointy head that looks almost like a beak. Where’s a fishing guide when you need one? After that we see a group of two or three whales not too far from us, doing what they do best, huge puffs of vaporized water shooting 6 or 7 feet up in the air, huge humps appearing out of the water and the grand finale: The Tail waving in the air before gracefully disappearing in the water.
Sea Turtles start making an appearance, too. Every now and then we see their dark, shiny humps that look like rocks floating at sea. Occasionally they raise their head, peeking at us, who knows what they think of us?
I’m enjoying myself too much for words, the sun warm on my skin, the sea breeze smelling so good, our beloved Camelot purring quietly as she takes us to our new destination: Bahia Tenacatita. There has been some controversy surrounding this place: last year a rich and politically well-connected guy, with the help of the Federales (national police), forced the many small business owners off the beach, claiming he purchased the whole bay. So, there’s no more palapa restaurants and souvenir vendors on “his” stretch of property, no more jungle guided tours up the little estuary. With no prospects of finding tourist attractions and a little intimidated by the presence of the watchful and well-armed Federales, we decide to aim straight for the anchorage at La Manzanilla, a couple miles further South within the Bahia Tenacatita.
While entering the Bay I notice clusters of jellyfish in the water, by the hundreds. I sure don’t want to go swimming here! Then I remember that the Sea Turtles’ food of choice is, you guessed, jellyfish. No wonder there are so many Turtles around here! I like what I see while we settle in La Manzanilla. It’s a small, colorful vacation community, and it has all we came here for: beautiful golden beach, small restaurants, vacation rentals and Bed & Breakfasts. Very picturesque!
In no time we’re all ready to go visit the town, Annie and Hugh are with us, eager as we are to explore the Little Apple of the Sea. The first thing we see coming up from the beach and walking towards the edge of town is a chain link fence surrounding a lagoon. It’s a protected sanctuary, home to a number of giant crocodiles.
Annie chooses that moment to comment on the absence of small dogs around town… I keep my hands well off the fence, thoroughly spooked.
After the customary photo session with these incredibly large reptiles we walk into the town proper. It’s so quaint, there are little grocery shops, hardware stores, restaurants, even an Internet Café’ with many computers available for 20 Pesos per hour.
The houses nestled up on the hills are spectacular in their simplicity, painted in vivid colors. I soon develop a neck ache, walking with my nose up in the air. We go back to the beach for an early dinner, I want to sample the specialty this town is famous for: El Rollo De Mar, the Roll of the Sea. It’s a fish filet filled with small shrimps and octopus, rolled up and smothered in almond sauce. Heavenly!!! It’s a great way of ending the day; with a fat belly and in high spirit we all return to our respective floating bases to enjoy yet another incredibly beautiful sunset.
The sun is not even completely down, and the full moon is already rising behind the hills. Who needs any form of entertainment, when Mother Nature day after day so generously provides the best show on Earth?
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