SAILING CAMELOT

All has been pretty quiet on the cruising front this past  month. Tom was left behind in San Carlos while I globe-hopped my way to and  from Italy. It was great to visit my family; two weeks went by in a blink. On  the return trip I experienced a variety of weather conditions: left Italy wrapped in heavy, blinding fog. Sampled 34 degrees temperature and a brief snow
storm on my layover in Philadelphia, where the airplane needed de-icing of the  wings. Enjoyed what felt like a mild fall in Phoenix, which prepared me for the  full-blown summer heat I found back in San Carlos. It’s good to be back! Back  to my big bear of a husband, back to my sweet Camelot, back into the colorful  land of Smiling People.

The Mooring Field

Picture Perfect view

We’ll be here another week or maybe two, depending on when the stainless arch for Camelot is ready. In the meantime, we have friends visiting from Arizona next week. Craig and Linda are also doing me a HUGE favor: they’re bringing down with them two ocean kayaks that are somewhat of an early Birthday present for me. I can’t wait to see them (both friends and kayaks)!

This is our everyday view. Please don't hate us!

What a beautiful Marina! This is possibly the best one we’ve seen in all of Mexico. Good thing, as it will be our home for a month at least.
There are plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from, all within walking distance. There’s also a small, pretty well stocked chandlery. No wonder this place is so popular with the cruisers!

Strolling around the Docks, this is what we see

The San Carlos Marina Offices

Once a year, usually in October, I fly home (Italy) to visit my family. This year I’m going alone. Tom will stay with Camelot, taking care of various maintenance tasks. Camelot is also getting a new stainless steel arch, which not only will make her look snazzy but will also support our solar panels.

In the few days left before I leave for Italy, we explore San Carlos and Guaymas. San Carlos, as far as I can see, is pretty much a long stretch of road with homes and little shops on the side. Guaymas, however, is a truly buzzing Mexican town. We found ourselves visiting the local open market and that in itself was quite entertaining. There are all the major “Gringo”
stores here: Sam’s Club, Walmart, Ley’s, etc. You can find everything you need. For 12 Pesos you can ride the bus (another entertaining experience!) from the San Carlos Marina to Guaymas. I’m willing to go back  to take pictures, since I didn’t have my camera with me that day…

Our Dock Gate. Pretty, don't you think?

The world looks gorgeous, this morning! Amazing what a good night’s sleep can do to your batteries… Anyway, we take stock of our surroundings while enjoying our coffee. This bay is a jewel!  White, sandy beaches backed by the rugged Tetakawi Mountain (Tetas de Cabras / Goat’s Teats). Lots of vacation homes and a couple of hotels dot the bay.

View of the northern end of Bahia Algodones

In the past there was also a Club Med resort here, but it has been closed a few years ago. In the late 1960s the satirical anti-war movie Catch 22 was filmed here, the remnants of the set are still intact today and horseback excursions are available to go explore. Lots to do and see!

This used to be Club Mediterranee

Bahia Algodones is also home to the famous and colorful Soggy Peso Beach Bar, a must-go spot for tourists. Of course we obliged!
Spending a day on the beach while friendly and smiling people bring you food and drinks ranks very high on our list of things to do.

Tom doing what he does best

One whole afternoon was spent anxiously watching a big motor vessel drag his anchor. The afore mentioned vessel was anchored mere feet from Camelot to start with, and seeing it drag closer and closer was scary. The big boat was left unmanned, the owners left for a few hours. Tom and I spent hours devising emergency maneuvers to avoid disaster, none of which would have worked since the big boat was sitting on our anchor… Oh, the curses! Luckily the owner returned before dark and moved a safe distance away. Crisis averted!

The famous Soggy Peso Bar!

Here are the coordinates, in case you need them...

We ended up staying only three days here. The winds started being pesky, even in the bay, and it was getting uncomfortable. Besides, the well-protected San Carlos Marina is just 8 miles down. So on a very windy morning we left Bahia Algodones. The waves were about 6 to 8 feet high, which made for an interesting ride. I have been spoiled for months with calm seas, so
I was mildly nervous with these less than perfect conditions.

Tom decided that practicing steering in heavy seas would be  good practice for me, so he handed me the wheel. And he was right. Nothing  better than to take control and feel in charge to dissipate the anxiety! It  took us a little less than two hours to get into calm waters, my arms and  shoulders were burning. What a workout! But the Captain was pleased with my
performance, and with an appreciative grunt he took the wheel back to bring  Camelot into the San Carlos Marina.

Entering San Carlos Marina

Camelot at rest in its spot, a sweet end-tie on Dock S with the BIG boats!

All we know as we leave this morning is: the weather forecasts are all predicting very strong winds and consequently angry seas starting at about 5 in the afternoon. We do not want to wait two, three days or more days for a clearing. We’re usually pretty good at picking a destination, calculating the time to get there, etc. Today we want to be cautious, after all weather prediction is not an exact science, better to aim for a short hop and avoid getting caught in bad weather.  So we set our destination as Bahia Kino, just 18 miles ahead, not even a three-hour trip. Easy-peasy, right? Nope! Sea conditions and current winds are more favorable to go south; we debate, decide that we have enough time to get to another safe spot, so we keep going. There’s an anchorage called Las Cocinas about 60 miles down, we can be there, safe and protected in about 8 hours. Ok, we keep going for the longer haul.  

Somewhere near Las Cocinas

It was another long motoring day. Not enough wind to get us going, just the threat of winds too strong to be friendly arriving in hours. We rev up the trusted engine and keep going.

As we finally approach Las Cocinas, we see that the bay would be wide open to the predicted northwesterly strong winds. Tom purses his lips, twists his nose and blurts out “Let’s get going to Bahia San Pedro, it’s only 18 miles further down”. That means about 2 and a half more hours. Fine with me, as long as we arrive while there’s still light!

We trod along. A while later the small Bahia San Pedro is right in our sight. There is a huge commercial fishing vessel taking shelter in “our” spot. We could squeeze beside it, no problem. Uh-Oh! Tom is twisting his nose again!

“Say, it’s just 11 more miles to this gorgeous, perfectly protected, spacious bay…”  I’m wondering if he’ll make me go all the way to Zihuatanejo before we stop… “FINE!” I explode. “It’s going to be dark in less than two hours. Don’t make me anchor in a strange place in the dark!”

The Captain has decided, the Admiral (yeah, right!) has acquiesced, so we keep going.

It costs me to admit it, but Tom was right to choose the next anchorage. It’s beautiful for what I can see – it’s dusk by now-, it’s huge, plenty of space for a lot of boats (there’s no one else here!), and very well protected.

As soon as we’re settled, someone turned the switch up there and the winds start blowing like crazy. But we’re safe and snug and comfortable. And relieved…

Welcome to Bahia Algodones.

Bahia Algodones - The Tetakawi Mountain

What we do find is good shelter in a well protected little bay and warm water –although the visibility at this time is not that great. We’re totally alone. Within an hour of our arrival, however, the absolute silence is broken by a noise resembling boiling water! Looking off the side of the boat I see a huge circle of what really appears to be boiling water. 

Turbulence in the Water... What the hell?

The Cause of the Turbulence

I’m half expecting some Sea Monster to come out; instead we determine the disturbance to be caused by numerous middle-sized fish, all apparently intent on feeding. This goes on for hours at a time, multiple times a day. The pelicans are ecstatic… I’m wondering if any of these creatures will be bold enough to jump up into the boat… 

Don't know what this is, but it looks good enough to eat!

And the birds agree... Jonathan, dinner is served!

The days are getting shorter, it gets dark earlier. Tom and I struggle to remain awake at least until 9 o’clock at night! We certainly have taken on Nature’s rhythms… Or maybe we’re just getting to be middle aged, who knows. In any case, we make this a Movie Night, shame I’m out of popcorn. Movie Nights are much more frequent in the wintertime, so this is definitely a change of season on Camelot! 

Navy MotherShip far off in the distance

Dawn at Isla Tiburon

We sleep the sleep of the innocent, finally comfortable, thanks to the cooling temperature. I wake up in time for my favorite display of affection from Mother Nature: a glorious sunrise.

Sun Rising on Bahia de Los Perros - Isla Tiburon

 This new day also brings a surprise: a small Mexican Navy Patrol Boat, anchored right on our starboard side.

If you think this is a fishing boat

... Take a closer look!

Tom is certain that we’ll be boarded (again!), so we sit in the cockpit sipping coffee and waiting patiently. Quite a few minutes go by; Tom is closely watching every move of the guys on deck. Finally he can’t take it anymore, so he hollers “Hola, Amigos! Coffee?”, lifting his own coffee mug to make his point. Bless my husband, building a bridge of friendship made of coffee wherever we go. This time, possibly for the first time in Mexico, his offer is politely declined. As it turns out, the Mexican Marines have stopped in this quiet bay just to take a break and have a peaceful breakfast. No boarding, no questions, just a little waving.  It’s always reassuring to see these guys around.

The Mariners getting ready to go after Breakfast

And Off they Go!

We are getting slightly restless by now. We’re closer to the Mainland and there are a couple of cute bays and anchorages we want to explore on our way to San Carlos, the ultimate destination for civilization-deprived cruisers like us. There will be people, stores, Internet, restaurants and more! It’s like the carrot dangling in front of the donkey’s nose. So tomorrow we leave, it’s decided.

In our minds, this is the start of our slow “leaving Mexico” itinerary. We have visited the Sea of Cortez to our satisfaction, now it’s time to reach Mainland Mexico and head south. It will take us a couple of short stops in the Midriff Islands before we get to the Mainland.

Today we’re headed for Isla Partida, about three hours away. Upon arrival, we’re thrilled to notice crystal clear waters and great visibility! Heck, it’s not often I get to see my anchor buried in the sand in 27 feet of water… As soon as Camelot stops moving, Tom is already in the water, clamoring for me to join him and go explore the reef. I’m game for some snorkeling, so off we go! The water is chillier than I’d like, but some vigorous swimming temporarily solves that problem. We end up swimming a loop of two miles and by the time we return to Camelot, we’re both shivering. Summer must be ending…

Isla Partida

Despite the great visibility in the water, well, we don’t find much sea life to watch! The snorkeling today is disappointing. Later in the evening we welcome Jim & Juanita from Arctic Tern, who are sharing this small anchorage with us. Over a good pasta dinner, Jim tells us about their totally different and much better snorkeling experience. I guess their corner of the bay is better for finding fish! To prove this theory, Jim presents us with a nice piece of freshly speared fish. Thanks, guys!

I get to drive Camelot for the whole whopping 5 miles that separates Bahia Los Angeles to Puerto Don Juan, in flat calm waters. Negotiating some pointy rocks and shallow water, I skillfully enter the protected cove of Puerto Don Juan under the watchful eye of Capt. Tom who nods in approval. I should do it more often and give Merlin (the autopilot) a break!

Already a number of boats are here, anticipating the Party. We claim our spot and soon the socializing begins. There are friends here we haven’t seen for a while and it’s good to catch up with everyone.

The Entrance of Puerto Don Juan - view from inside the BayWhoo-Hooo! There's company and there will be a Party!

Puerto Don Juan –I learn- also bears the nickname “Puerto  Pollo”  (Pollo=Chicken).  The reason for this curious name? Being such a protected anchorage, boaters seek and find refuge here in the event of a hurricane, or just to escape the whipping winds that often sweep Bahia Los Angeles. So, basically, if you want to be a Chicken you’ll hide here. I’m more than happy to be a Chick for a few days!

Could this be the Pollo of Puerto Pollo?

Hmm... I called him Pollo and got the Evil Red Eye...

The duration of our stay, four days, is punctuated by the daily 4 O’Clock Swim and other fun activities. Here, courtesy of the Salonah crew, I learn how to dig for clams. Here, courtesy of a bunch of great cruising ladies, I have my first encounter with beading –something that I’d never considered doing in my previous life, given my lack of patience!-

Heartfelt thanks to Hermie of Ewa for the supply of materials and the patient teaching, and to Rita of Overheated, Annie of Vy’ger, Marsha of Juniata and Cindy of Bravo for the great company. These ladies are all so very creative; some are true artists, creating unique pieces of jewelry while having fun. I think this is the start of a new hobby for me…

We spent a few hours in the air-conditioned “living room” on Camelot, happily beading and yakking, while Tom was exiled up in the hot cockpit. Well, it was his choice… “All this estrogen makes me dizzy”, he said, and disappeared…

The End of The Season Party was a great success, held on the beach and attended by everyone. As usual on these occasions, the food was incredibly tasty and the company superb. I contributed my usual Italian Focaccia and a Bread Pudding that was my first attempt, but ended up being actually good…

The "Window" overlooking Bahia de Los Angeles

A Picture Perfect Place

From here we will all separate and scatter in different directions, so it was a fitting way to say good-bye and celebrate the good times we enjoyed together.

Surreal Scenery: Image shot at the crack of Dawn

Swapping the peaceful waters of La Gringa for gale-force winds, we make our grand entrance to Bahia de Los Angeles. Damn, it’s only 6 miles from one place to the other, but what a difference! We were here just a few weeks ago, back now for a very special reason: The End of The Season Party!

The anchorage is peppered with sailboats, at least 30 of them. All will be attending the Party which will be held at Puerto Don Juan –not far from here.

We have just enough time to enjoy a well-deserved hamburger at Guillermo’s before the winds start howling. On and off, for the next 36 hours we get to experience vicious gusts of wind up to 45 knots. It is our formal introduction to the phenomenon known as the Elefantes. We can’t leave the boat, in case we need to move quickly. The boat is pitching and rolling, I’m cranky for the whole duration, while Tom is just resigned. I was NOT in the mood to take pictures, sorry!

Since we’ve already been here and seen what is there to see, on the morning of the 27^th we head to Puerto Don Juan.

Up at the crack of dawn! Actually, it’s still dark as we pull up the anchor… But we like to leave early in the morning, and I just love to see the sun rising: one Mother Nature’s best performances. 

The BEST matinee show

The Color Palette changes every minute!

Another pleasant, seven-hour long hop, and we arrive in the neighborhood of Bahia de Los Angeles. This time we anchor in Ensenada La Gringa. There are a couple of boats sharing this very spacious anchorage, one we know and one we don’t. Tom quickly remedies that, and we make new friends! We meet the very welcoming Australian family aboard the catamaran Sonrisa. Nick and Melissa (Mel), and their two sons: Benjamin, 5 yrs old, and Huon, two yrs old. It’s always great to exchange sea-stories, especially with people that have gone farther and longer than we have. What a nice time we had with them!

We’ll stay in La Gringa for just a couple of days.

This morning everyone’s leaving. The mood is definitely more subdued… We feel quite lonely, only the two of us are left in the Bay. So we take a long exploratory dinghy ride to compensate for the lack of company.

Beach House of Gonzaga Bay

Looking towards the Hotel - Restaurant

Some VERY pretty homes on the Beach

The "Other Side" of Gonzaga Bay - Overlooking Bahia Willard