SAILING CAMELOT

We proceed a few miles further north to our designated anchorage, Sweet Pea Cove. I know, what a funny name, right? We’re told the name Sweet Pea belonged to a fishing vessel that sadly sank in this cove quite a few years ago.

The Welcome Committee

The water is crystal clear as we arrive and we can spot a sandy bottom peppered with patches of rocks. Nearby lay a number of various reefs, from barely submerged to 10 feet high above the water.  This is definitely an area that begs to be explored. The snorkeling should be spectacular.

About a mile away, just a short dinghy ride from our “home base”, there are sea caves to be explored. We take off early one morning in search of the famous Caleta de Los Arcos (Cove of the Arches), looking for two sea caves that are accessible by dinghy or kayak. And we find them! 

The entrance to the main cave is very low and we’re laying flat as pancakes on the dinghy for just a few, claustrophobic seconds. We’re rewarded with a tiny pebble beach where we park”.

Local Resident

Well, HELLLLOOOO there!

The color of the water is in shades of emerald and jade, a stark contrast with the blue-grays and mauve of the surrounding rock walls.
There is something of a vaulted ceiling above us with a hole in the middle that lets light filtrate through.

Cave Man!

We don our gear and start swimming towards enticing little caves that are all connected. At times we have to swim underwater for a short distance in some sort of tunnel that connects the various “chambers”. I’m too distracted by the colors and the fish to worry about getting my big butt stuck in the rocks…

After a good couple of hours in the cool waters, thoroughly satisfied and loaded with underwater pictures, we make our way back to the ever-welcoming Camelot.

Underwater Traffic Jam

You don't want to sit on this...

I see Stars!

and more Stars!

We end up spending the rest of the day “recovering” and resting, with a book in one hand and a bottle of icy water in the other. It is quite hot, and there’s very little breeze.

There are only three or four other boats anchored around us, enough to have company when desired and privacy when needed. Just perfect!

We spend five days in Sweet Pea Cove, and I would have liked to stay longer, but… We’re running a bit low on supplies and we crave some Internet connection –after about a month without it!-, so we reluctantly get ready to leave.

Last evening at Sweet Pea Cove - Isla San Marcos

After 4 weeks and 3 days in this blessed spot, once again we say our goodbyes and head up and out of Bahia Conception.

Our next destination is San Marcos Island. We decide to break the trip by spending the night in Punta Chivato and resuming our travel early on July 6^th.

At rest , Punta Chivato

Red Sky At Night...

In just a few hours of motoring we come within sight of San Marcos. This medium-sized island’s claim to fame is a very active and productive Gypsum mine (think sheetrock material). Large quantities of Gypsum are exported to ports around the world. A large T shaped pier extending about 300 yards into the bay is used to load big cargo carrying vessels, and also to receive supplies for the mine.

The Gypsum Mine

The Loading Pier

The white, powdery clouds from the mining activities are well visible from a few miles’ distance.
The mine is on the southern end of the island; there’s also a small village inhabited by 600 souls, all directly or indirectly involved with the mine.

As we approach the island we can see huge mounds of gypsum ready to be picked up, and even from a distance of over 2 miles we notice bustling activity.

Lunar Landscape

Gypsum ready to be loaded and exported

And for those who feel a little homesick, there’s even a  4^th of July Party in El Burro Cove, complete with fireworks! This annual event, organized by our weather guru Geary, has been a regular occurrence for the past 16 years. Lots of boats converge and fill El Burro Cove for the occasion. We have been lookingforward to this event for over a year!

Party on the Beach

Geary, bless his generous heart, provides an endless supply of hot dogs, organizes the beer vendors, purchases the fireworks and makes sure no one gets hurt. It’s a lot of work, even with a crew of volunteers helping him out.

Meet Geary, Weather Guru and Hot Dog Specialist

But the result is spectacular and the party is a lot of fun.

Geary’s been presented with a gift in appreciation for his many services to the boating community, chiefly his very valuable weather forecasts.

"Help! I've started Talking and I can't Shut Up!"

We had an absolute blast. Thank you, Geary, for your warm hospitality, all the trips to town, your cheerful assistance and your daily broadcasting of The Amazing Grace – bagpipes version-.

Another set of Great Memories to put away in our Memory Chest.

Sunrise at El Burro Cove - Bahia Concepcion

This has been our longest stay to date. We ended up living in this welcoming and friendly place for more or less a whole month.

Camelot at rest in El Burro Cove

The days went by fast, at times filled with fun activities and at times with lazy hours, but never dull.

The Relaxing Hour

Tom’s lifelong wish to swim with the Whale Sharks has been granted . One late afternoon a young and curious specimen came wandering in the bay, lazily spinning circles around Camelot and other neighboring boats. He swam close to the surface, and REALLY close to our boat.

This is a YOUNGSTER???

Whale Shark

Immediately upon sighting, Tom grabbed his fins and mask and  hastily dove after the shark. I have to say, it was really funny seeing Tom trying to put his mask on over his sunglasses, which he forgot he had on in all the excitement… So off he went, fearlessly diving underwater to get some prime shots of this puppy Whale Shark.

Scary Monster, but such a gente creature

There was definitely a mutual attraction. The shark kept turning his massive head sideways to take a good look at Tom. Its tiny eyes are low on the side, almost on the corner of its mouth.

The Eyes are really close to the Mouth

This little bay is home –or playing ground- to so many species. We get a variety of visitors: sharks, turtles, rays. Some of them, like this turtle, like to hang around every day for hours.

Turtle swimming beside Camelot

Today we go visit Isla Bargo, a small islet about a mile from out home-base. It’s a straight shot, a fast dinghy ride of maybe five minutes. Tom thinks the island used to be a volcano, the shape seems to suggest as much but we find nothing to corroborate his theory. Better go underwater and investigate…

Tom getting ready to explore Isla Bargo

Isla Bargo

It’s amazingly beautiful down there. We end up staying in the water for such a long time, our hands are all pruned-up!  We walk the small beach, observing our surroundings. So many birds, colorful and lively, are all around us. And they’re not shy, some flying very close to us, others curiously observing us from their perch.

I'm telling you, Fred! The fish that got away was THIS big!

Sharp-beaked creatures

Grace in Flight

I'd be screaming too If I had to stand on a Cactus...

The colors of the water, the amazing rock formations, all this incredible fauna both above and below water. It’s almost overwhelming to take in! We return to our welcoming boat a little tired but well satisfied. And tomorrow we get to do it again!

Rush Hour underwater at Isla Bargo

Swimming with the Sargeant Majors

My Lucky Star

This guy would look really good on my grill...

But now is time for a siesta, we better be fresh and rested for our visit to Bertha’s Beach Club Restaurant tonight.

El Burro Cove is, if possible, even more beautiful. As we drop the anchor we already know we’ll stay here a few days. There are so many rocks ad islets to explore, a friendly atmosphere in the air, and it doesn’t hurt to see a small and cozy restaurant right on the beach. I’ve been cooking our meals for two weeks straight; I’m due for a break!

El Burro Cove

The water is crystal clear and warm, the rocks around us just begging to be visited. I can foresee many snorkeling excursions already. There’s a handful of boats anchored around us, again we recognize most of them. There will be company!

Bertha's Beach Club Restaurant

This trip is longer than our last few ones; in fact we travel for about 7 hours further up in the Sea of Cortez, destination Bahia Conception. This is a large body of water enclosing numerous small coves with secluded beaches of the most unusual names, and scattered with dozens of islets.

Our first stop is Bahia Coyote, Playa Santispac.

Santispac

This spot is renowned as a mating place for whale sharks, and the offspring is happily swimming around with Mom and Dad. They are docile, non-aggressive animals that even allow humans to touch them, play with them, and hitch a ride on their dorsal fin. They’re huge! The youngsters are about 14-16 feet in length, the adults anything up to about 50 feet. It’ll take a lot of courage for me to get near them, while Tom is itching to go swim with them.
We arrive late afternoon and are both pretty tired, so when the radio crackles with excited voices announcing the presence of two “small” sharks we just look at each other and say: manana! Tomorrow we’ll be rested and ready to go play with the monster-fish. Right now I just feel like bait…

But we end up leaving Santispac in the morning after spending the night here, as we want to go just a couple of miles down the Bay to another premium spot: Playa El Burro (Donkey Beach).

Approaching El Burro Cove

The whale-sharks travel all over Bahia Conception, so I’m sure we’ll bump into them sooner or later–I hope gently!-.

It’s unusually cloudy and damp this morning as we leave Isla Coronado. The only positive outcome of this gloomy day is the absence of bees!
God, were they ever a nuisance… They better produce tons of honey for all the inconvenience!

We’re lucky; as we pull out of the anchorage we find enough wind to fill the sails, what a welcome change! Camelot was morphing into a powerboat, lately; it was high time to give the sails a good stretch. Of course the wind is not always blowing in the right direction and it’s also capriciously changing direction from time to time, keeping us busy maintaining course and trimming sails. At times we go straight, at times we wander like drunken sailors, but we’re having a blast. The sea is calm and we’re in no hurry; our next beautiful spot will still be there for us when we get there!

Caleta San Juanico

By the way, we’re heading for Caleta San Juanico. Not an island, this time. San Juanico is on the Coast of Baja California South, a popular stop for cruisers.

I’m mildly concerned, earlier radio reports talked about a considerable number of boats anchored there, and I so want to visit this place everybody talks about!

Rock Formations

But we’re lucky again, after our very pleasant sail we  arrive to find plenty of space and a very comfortable and scenic spot to call  home for the next few days. I really have to concentrate on my anchoring  duties, this place is so incredibly beautiful and I have to resist the need to  grab my camera! Down, girl. There will be time, lots of it.

Boats come, boats go; within a few hours the anchorage fills  with friends and acquaintances. Tom takes me around in the dinghy to take  pictures of the magnificent rock formations, stopping by this boat and that,  greeting friends. The temperature is probably the hottest so far, summer must  be just around the corner… The wonderfully clear water is nice and warm, just  perfect!

Our Perfect Spot

We spend our days reading lazily on the boat, diving in for a cooling swim, taking little excursions with the kayak, exploring the water caves; generally having a wonderful time. Nobody talks about leaving this place! I can see why it’s so popular. Not only it’s a protected anchorage, but it looks straight out of the pages of a National Geographic issue!

I rediscover my passion for swimming, spending hours in the water. Tom, ever the dutiful boat-owner, pulls out his diving gear to go clean Camelot’s hull. I happily lend a hand; armed with sponges and old towels I attack the cruddy waterline of the boat while Tom is “six feet under”, busy fighting the barnacles that have taken up residence wherever they could. After a long time scrubbing the results are satisfying, but I’m still finding every excuse possible to stay in the water just a little bit longer…

The next day I join our friends Hugh and Anne from Serendipity for a snorkeling adventure. There are so many rocks all over the place, it’s hard to just pick one! In fact, over the next few days we’ll repeat the experience.

Seascape! Underwater Marvels

Smile, You're On Camera!

At times Tom and I just dive off our boat and swim the short distance to the caves nearest to us, armed with snorkeling gear and underwater camera. And let me tell you, that is the best piece of equipment ever! There is a total different world under the water surface. It’s like a botanical garden under there, incredible colors, plants, rocks, fish.

I can –and do!- spend hours with my face down, bobbing and floating, barely moving to let the fish come near me. Then, zap! Picture taken! I find myself watching a colorful fish
for a long time, repeating in my mind “take the shot, take the shot!” like a sniper… And then I strike. 

I can understand the fascination of Jack Cousteau, it’s the constant discovery of an unfamiliar and wonderful world. 

Between the rocks, the land, the sea, the birds, the underwater scenery, I have taken about 700 pictures so far. Of this place only!
After a good, heavy-handed selection process, I’m still left with 400 really good ones. I’m sorry you only get to see a few… 

Osprey in flight

Osprey's Nest

One day we decide to go to the beach for a sunset party, attended by a large number of boaters. Needless to say, it was Tom’s idea. He went around the anchorage, rallying up everybody! But what a pleasant way to end the day. As soon as it got dark a fire was lit: out came the marshmallows, the chocolate and the crackers. It’s S’more time! There were only two kids, but the
grown-ups enjoyed maybe even more. I think that was my official first beach-camp party! I hope we get to do it again.

Happy Fish!

The Cruisers' Shrine, where every visitor leaves some proof of their presence. We didn't.

We’ve been here five days. I think I could stay five months and not get tired of this corner of the world. But there’s more to discover ahead, so tomorrow we leave.

Caleta San Juanico, you gave me memories of a lifetime! This definitely goes on my Most Favorite Places list, high on the top.

After such incredible views, my eyes are barely registering the turquoise color of the little bay that will host us for the next 3 days. There’s only so much beauty my brain can take in a day!

We make ourselves at home and promptly proceed to spend the rest of the day in quiet contemplation. A few other boats are anchored here, we know most of them. It’s always good to visit and catch up with friends.

The Bay at Coronado Island

I guess Tom feels a little isolated, so he takes off in the dinghy and proceeds to invite our neighbors for a “bring-your-own-booze” little reunion on Camelot. By late afternoon there are 10 of us enjoying the little gathering in the cockpit of Camelot, mostly new friends. As I’m busy preparing snacks in the galley I’m surprised to hear a man’s voice addressing me in Italian! Dario is Argentinean but was raised in Rome, so in no time we’re yakking away in Italian like a couple of old maids… But in fairness all our guests were very nice people and we really enjoyed their company. We’ll meet them again; I’m sure, as we’re all heading in the same direction for the summer. Better stock up on beer

Sunrise! View from Camelot

I'm more than happy to get up early to catch The Matinee Show

We enjoy our stay, but there’s trouble in Paradise… The bees have discovered us! No matter how careful I am, how wiped dry our boat is inside and out, they all come to check us out in droves. It seems that this time the bottle of water I keep by my side is their target. Now, I like bees and respect their role in the world, so I don’t kill them if I can help it… But we really felt haunted! So much so, I can say the bees are a determining factor in our decision to leave Isla Coronado earlier than planned.

Or maybe that’s an excuse… In any case, tomorrow we leave!

Unwanted Guests on Camelot

We celebrate the beginning of June with yet another short and spectacular trip. This time we’re bound for Isla Coronados, a tiny island a little further north in the Sea of Cortez. Thank God for the autopilot, allowing us to enjoy the scenery in total bliss. Not that there is much traffic on the water, we crossed just a couple of sailboats in the distance.

We’re treated to a subtle show of big manta rays barely skimming the water, successfully eluding my photographic efforts… And boy, did I try!

But my disappointment is soon forgotten as we round the corner of Isla Carmen. The easternmost side of the island is known as the Painted Cliffs. It’s yet another proof that Nature is the true inspirer of artists. This natural geological marvel coupled with the work of wind and water creates an astonishingly breathtaking backdrop.

I must have shot 200 pictures,  but here’s just a sampling of the images embedded in my heart.

With such scenery to entertain us we reach our destination in what seems like minutes instead of the actual 3 hours.